Discover the Charm of Varenna: A Hidden Gem on Lake Como
- Marie Williams
- 5 minutes ago
- 6 min read
As we waited for our train at the Varenna station, my husband and I struck up a conversation with a retired couple. They shared their experiences of staying by the beautiful Lake Como, where they rented a charming Italian villa for a month and embraced the local lifestyle. Each day, they bought groceries for their dinner and spent their time wandering and relaxing. Ever since, I've been dreaming of doing the same. There's no better place to unwind than Lake Como.
In just over an hour, you can travel from Milan, Italy, to the picturesque town of Varenna on Lake Como. This breathtaking Y-shaped glacial lake, located in Northern Italy, is the fifth deepest in Europe. The region is renowned for its exquisite silk and serves as a romantic and relaxing getaway for many.
Varenna, a destination frequented by poets, musicians, and artists for the past two centuries, has been a source of inspiration for many. Stroll along the charming lakeside promenade through the historic center to arrive at Villa Cipressi, a 15th-century villa featuring a breathtaking botanical garden with views of Lake Como that will leave you in awe.
In this post, I offer insights on staying in Varenna and embracing the concept of "La vita lenta"—living the slow life.
Following our visit to Milan, we chose to take things slower by exploring Lake Como and appreciating its stunning landscapes. In just an hour and twenty minutes by train from Milan's city center, you can reach the picturesque town of Varenna.
When you arrive at the Varenna-Esino Train station, you'll encounter a railway station. There, you'll find a restroom and a ticket window inside where you can buy train tickets, or you can use a machine (for your return to Milan). Alternatively, you can purchase your train ticket in advance through Trenord.
Taking a taxi to our B&B would have been convenient, but since taxi's are limited here and it was just an 11-minute walk, we chose to walk. I have to admit, the walk begins with a steep downhill slope, which makes it somewhat challenging to manage with a suitcase, but we managed to make it work.
Where to Stay
While there are many places to stay in Varenna, I chose to stay at Fio & Gio B&B near the city center.
Fiò & Giò in Varenna is located in a historic building, providing a distinctive and charming ambiance. I loved the breathtaking lake views and peaceful setting.
The guest house features a charming sun terrace, perfect for enjoying a glass of wine in the evening or a morning coffee while overlooking Lake Como.
We had a very pleasant stay. The place was very clean, and the owner was punctual in meeting us at the agreed time to let us in. For breakfast, we could visit the cafe and bar, Al Barilott, just a minute's walk away to enjoy a croissant and coffee, covered by the B&B.
At Al Barilott, you can buy wine either by the glass or bottle, as well as sandwiches and train tickets.
After checking into our B&B, we set out to explore the charming town. Varenna was initially settled by fishermen in the 8th century and was later destroyed by the people of Como in 1126. Varenna strengthened by welcoming refugees from Isola Comacina in 1169, a moment still celebrated annually. The village is famous for its well-preserved medieval layout, with narrow stone lanes leading down to the lake, and its historical connection to the Castello di Vezio, which has towered above it for over 1,000 years.
Our first stop in only a one minute walk from our B&B, the historic church, San Giorgio.
Things to Do in Varenna
Visit the Church of San Giorgio
Located in the main square of Varenna, Piazza San Giorgio, the Church of San Giorgio is a Lombard Romanesque-Gothic church dating back to the 14th century. It features three naves, a 17th-century bell tower, and an impressive 1467 polyptych by Jo Pietro de' Brentanis. The interior is decorated with stunning frescoes and has flooring crafted from black Varenna marble.
Walking into this ancient church gives you the sensation of leaving the modern world behind and entering a space where time seems to have slowed down. It's a mixture of profound silence, the scent of centuries-old wood, stone, and incense, and the cool, damp air that hits you upon entering.
You will feel a deep connection to the past, evoking thoughts of the countless people who have prayed there over centuries.
The church is open every day from 8:30 am to 7:00 pm.
Mass is on Saturday at 6:00 pm | Sunday at 10:30am and at 6:00 pm
You'll enjoy hearing the church bells ring every hour, as their harmonious chimes fill the air.
Walk a short two minutes to reach Villa Cipressi
Visit the Botanical Garden at Hotel Villa Cipressi
Hotel Villa Cipressi is not just a hotel, but a renowned landmark in Varenna, that blends the brilliance of nature, architecture, and history. It features an extraordinary botanical garden that includes native species alongside rare plants from across the globe. With its stunning views, this destination is truly unmissable.
The hotel was constructed and developed from the 1400s to the 1800s, establishing it as a historical complex.
I strongly suggest reserving this tour ahead of time if you know your visiting date. The entry fee is €13 per person. Simply go into the hotel and show them your tickets. They will guide you to the starting point of your botanical garden tour.
When you enter the hotel, which appears misleading from the front, you'll be truly astonished by the back with its stunning views.
Plan on spending about an hour to walk around the gardens and enjoy the scenery.
Next on the agenda is to walk the scenic, pedestrian-only path which hugs the rock along the Varenna coast, also known as the Passeggiata degli Innamorati, or Lovers' Walk. This picturesque red-railed walkway links the Varenna ferry terminal to the town center and fishing village, with breathtaking views of Lake Como.
Stroll Lovers' Walk
The walk is under a mile, and we began from the town center side. As you wander through, you'll pass by shops and restaurants, enjoying the scenery. There's also a gelateria on the way, which provided a delicious pause.
Gelateria Riva
Stroll into Gelato Riva along the waterfront for a little break. They have many flavors to choose from including delicious pistachio and tiramisu.
We scheduled our walk to conclude at the pier for a boat tour of Lake Como, which I highly recommend.
Boat Tour of Lake Como
I arranged a one-hour boat tour with Taxi Boat to experience Lake Como from a new angle.
We cruised along the shoreline until we arrived at Villa del Balbianello, then returned to view the villages of San Giovanni, Bellagio, and Fiumelatte, ultimately returning to Varenna.
In September, we traveled to Varenna as the tourist season was coming to an end, which gave us the opportunity to have the boat and Luca, the driver, all to ourselves. The villas around Lake Como were breathtaking, and we discovered some fascinating facts.
Did you know that scenes from Star Wars: Episode II – Attack of the Clones (2002) were shot at Lake Como, Italy, particularly at the Villa del Balbianello? It was amazing to see it.
In the end, Luca offered to take a photo of us with Varenna as the backdrop. It was a wonderful memory.
To end our perfect day in Varenna, we walked back to our hotel for a little rest and headed out to dinner. Along our walk on the lakefront we spotted an eatery with a perfect view of the water.
Dinner at Varenna Caffe Bistrot
The dinner at Varenna Caffe Bistrot was unforgetable. We started with a salad of fennel, apples, carrots, nuts and a drizzle of honey and bruschetta with tomatoes, onion, eggplant and basil. Deliziosa! The combination of flavors were superb.
For dinner, I savored pappardelle with porcini mushrooms, and there's always space for tiramisu and cappuccino.
With the breathtaking views of Lake Como, it's hard to imagine a meal being more enjoyable.
Following a day spent exploring Varenna, we took another walk around the town before returning to our B&B for a restful night's sleep.
In the morning, we walked down the street to enjoy our croissant and coffee at Al Barilott and strolled the town square for the final time. We spent less than 24 hours here but loved every minute of it. After packing up we walked back to the train station and waited for our train to take us back to Milan.
Had I been able to extend my stay, I would have visited the medieval Vezio Castle located above the village. The castle is open from March to November, with an entry fee of €7 per person.
It was time to bid arrivederci to Varenna, but I will certainly return to enjoy this wonderful village someday.